Mistakenly I join a group of tourists
visiting dilapidated synagogues and cemeteries
For how could I not include this on my itinerary?
A sense of shame were I to skip this,
The decay of the buildings and peeling 50-year-old paint a testament
To poverty and exodus of the community after la Revolution.
The community leader tries to entertain a group of elderly tourists
led by their rabbi
From Delaware, who only wanted her picture (with plaque)
alongside the presidente.
We are no longer in the original sanctuary which they say
is now leased to a dance troupe (!)
We are in a smaller ignominious hall with fading yellow hanging curtains,
And old mustard-colored cinema seats lined up as pews
with a central gangway in the middle.
We are shepherded next to the dining hall
where old age folk are being fed,
I am embarrassed to stand there in voyeuristic show
designed to get the tourists to contribute.
Next onto the Holocaust “museum” consisting of a hallway
with the usual murals depicting Nazi Europe
and pictures of the ill-fated SS St Louis liner
turned away with 900 passengers, back to Europe to meet
their fate. The 83 year old guide
(why do all old Cubans look like Hemingway?)
speaks of his years growing up in Cuba,
with profound nostalgia.
Some of us restless ones, begin to wander.
We are used to high tech images and commanding videos with
colored murals, personal stories at least, testimonies, this is so pitiful.
I wanted to see the grandeur of the sanctuary,
so I slowly open the door to find the dance troupe in session.
They are dancing on what was the elevated platform
in front of the Aron Hakodesh which has been
boarded up but obviously still there.
I am initially sad that the community needs to survive on this rental
but all thoughts vanish then they begin to rehearse.
These young ballet dancers are oblivious to anything but their craft,
they swing through the air and twirl on their toes.
This is not modern dance,
more the classical ballet Havana is famous for.
I am amazed at the architecture of their slim bodies.
There is no fat, only muscles and sinews and
insertion points of muscles in joints.
I feel I am watching a live exercise in anatomy.
But then the music begins and I am spellbound by the movement
and the music together.
As they spin and fly through the air, defying gravity,
always landing with grace, the power and strength
and control reminds me of a classical oil painting,
then imagining them on stage in a huge ballet theatre
I am transported through time and space along with them.
Their bodies in motion carry me along.
The women rehearse for 30 seconds then men take over
with the same sequence of music and moves.
Tears overwhelm me, this place of Jewish history,
with a Holocaust museum on the other side of the
doors, and a failing shul and elderly feeding hall, then this!
The old folks and young lithe bodies together
unaware of each other in one building.
How does all fit? How can it?
I am so moved by their youth and vigor, their dedication to the art,
thinking of nothing but the performance, the moves,
the elegance and grace as they fly through the air.
I feel this was no accident, these young folk, the future,
with no “theology” in their minds, clueless in
fact as where they are dancing,
(for them a rental space) for me, on the altar,
the BIMA, before the Ark of the Covenant,
held to be so sacred a space by generations of worshippers,
They think not, they must not,
they must in fact, inhibit the mind
so that the body can perform.
(I remember when performing a Bach fugue
how in fact I had to let go of the thought of the notes
and just let the fingers play and play until the
fingers got it right).
Through constant rehearsal they train their limbs into muscle memory,
striving to mimic the intent of the choreographer who at times critiques,
and at others gets up to show them the move she wants.
As they dance it dawns on me the lesson to be learned.
They are the future, they express their spirituality in their bodies,
in their movements, their artistry IS their spirituality…
And for me, in a subversive way there remains holiness here still,
from the decrepit halls behind us and the institutionalization of
Holocaust memorials and “museums”
as an identity marker to the past,
here was something vital alive and urgent.
Alive with the movement of youth and vigor in the present.
I am so taken by one of the male dancers whose grace was feminine
yet so strong, An Adonis, a Greek god,
spinning and twirling through the air,
his jumps were high always landing with gentility.
Maybe this was the lesson. The future, the youth,
the next generation was giving us a message.
Forget the theologies and theodicies,
forget the rationalizations and even the heresies,
watch us!
Committed to the body to beauty to motion
to commitment to our craft
Watch us dance!
Rapturous dance
Leave the head behind, it only impedes,
Leave the heaviness
Leave the gravity/gravitas
Allow the body to soar in space
The new sanctuary
The body as temple
Worship here!
Follow the new rituals of pas de deux
The new rabbi as choreographer
Next time I daven is Shul
it will be the first time since my aveilus
that I will be permitted to tansel
The post kabbalat Shabbat dance around the bima back home.
The Rabbi will hold my hand and welcome me back after a year of mourning
And I will bring back these movements
I will try to let go and let the swaying of our Hassidic tansel
Move me out of the headspace and into the rhythm and movement as we sing
Shabbes Koidesh Shabbes Shabbes Koidesh!
And mother will nod approvingly.